You say, “That’s not possible.” And after almost 4 decades of having Labrador pups around almost all the time, I can 100% tell you, IF you correct your puppy on the way home (1-12 hours for most–day # 1) the way we tell you, for the first day, (Use this link for technique) there should be no jumping or biting after that.
Still sound impossible? Well, I’m a small person. I have thin skin (literally!) and I can’t be bleeding or be knocked over (I have back problems already) so my decision when I train a Lab pup is: biting and jumping are OFF LIMITS after day # 1. THAT’S IT! (If you want to live with me!) Now they ARE a puppy, you may have to correct on day 2 a couple times (along with our other list of great things to socialize your pup with!)—after that—IF YOU HAVE A PROBLEM PUP ON YOUR HANDS–you need to seriously, and honestly re-evaluate your family, home, and your method–see if you are doing it correctly to discourage the habit. Please don’t write to us and tell us about our ‘bad pup’—it just won’t work. We know. We have a professional trainer—we ARE trainers—we train Lab pups all. the. time. WE correct it in every pup when WE keep one from 8 weeks on. (we even dicourage this in the litter box–you’ll thank me later! lol)
If puppy bites I do this: (video) until the GAG comes—a good one. Next time– even better gag—you get it?? Coming back for more? Oh…GAG…LOL…they learn “those ‘things’ at the end of the hands hurt!” (It is so great that they never cower—never do those horrible things people create who DON’T correct their dog—and they constantly are swatting at them. THIS IS A NO-NO!! Pinching the lip won’t work—they may shy away—the gag—ALWAYS WORKS. (And hey–you want your dog around all the time being a GOOD DOG!! 🙂 awwww…..
NOW THE JUMPING—first try– I roll them backward (uncomfortable gait) and flip them on their back–like Momma would– (gently of course, but, with enough force, then they think “ewwww…I hate feeling off balance!!” (very non-aggressive training!I always like this). Its just working with instincts they already have. Now that won’t ruin belly rubs, its a “knee-ing” them, then the OFF! command, and if you need to…run them backwards about 4 steps and put them on their backs, then just walk away…nothing agressive, they’ll think, ‘well, that didn’t work!’ 🙂
Do you see? You are working with a NATURAL instinct to not perform an action if it results in less than comfortable response. Its not like they think of your “hand” coming at them, its just a quick reminder—ewwwww—that finger!!! Any other place they nibble—SAME CORRECTION. (like toes!) Its just another adaptation to their world–and there is so much!!!
If you call me in a week—or month (worse) telling me that your dog is still biting and jumping…well…I can only ask…”Did you correct—promptly and EVERY time—EVERY family member????” (don’t say, “Oh, I just couldn’t.” That will just make me mad at now having an unruly Labrador out there that can hurt you and OTHERS). Trust me, after literally thousands of phone conversations and 4 decades of Labradors–if you call saying your dog is ‘nuisance biting’ or jumping past day # 1, I do begin to wonder if people read my very first “Puppy’s First Days” kit which teaches how to train against this! I begin to wonder if you engaged while we explained these things upon ‘check out’ of your pup in which we thoroughly go through the puppy kit (in person) and recommend our YouTube channel and blogs for further education (which we do upon receiving your reservation as well!) We also encourage any questions at this time. We won’t be offended if you come with a list!! Really! We’ll be thrilled!!!
I’ll admit—you get hit with a lot of information when you get a pup from us—but it’s for your EASE—not only do you start with good genetics…but the training, as well, in the form of emails, blogs, my memoir (if you are signed up for our mailing list you will get it automatically, starting this summer!), and my video channel. All is there to make your transition a smooth one. Each dog is different. Don’t expect the same ‘speed’ of training with one dog as another. They are all so different. Even their “grrr….I hate that habit”… its theirs alone (and correctable most likely!)—another pet owner is dealing with another—lol—but we love them—and because we do—and want them to be accepted everywhere they go and a be a JOY FOR A LIFETIME…please, please, please…correct. Even ONE missed correction can mean “Oh, I can get away with this once, I’ll try again.” REALLY! (they are smarter than you think!!)
(link to Memoir here on Amazon)_
CHILDREN: Also remember–if your kids jump and hide and don’t want to participate in this correction–the pup will continue this bad behavior. (kids run…pups chase–I think God made this up! LOL But its dangerous for your child! The pup could grab their pant leg and trip them) So I always tell people to tell their kids to FREEZE! This can be a magical trick!) Ask your child to go to a corner, tuck up their feet and hands and cover themselves (like hide and seek). The dog won’t like being ignored when they have this behavior (because play stops–your child will understand how the puppy feels too…asss)—so they will not see your child as a “litter-mate” —one that they can get away with things around them but not you (your child has now set boundaries! That empowers them! And gives the pup stability and predictability)–but they will know this behavior is ALWAYS unacceptable. If there is high-energy play and the pup overwhelms a small child, again, have them freeze and go for cover where they are “neutral” to the dog and also “safe.” Take pup away, correct as an adult a few times, then see how things go. DON’T LET PUPPY JUMP–EVEN WHEN ITS LITTLE–YOU DON’T WANT IT JUMPING WHEN ITS 80 LBS–ESPECIALLY NOT ON YOU OR YOUR ELDERLY GRANDMA!!! SO DON’T LET IT JUMP ON YOU OR YOUR CHILD–EVEN IF ITS CUTE. RULE OF THUMB: (has been for 40. years): Don’t let the pup do anything you don’t want it to do at 80+lbs!!!
( this picture should never happen if this dog was corrected as a pup–remember it may be “cute’ to you if they jump–but they could harm or topple a handicapped or older person.)
Remember that the phrase, “Oh, I just could not do that.” Signals to a dog person, breeder, or trainer: This person is unteachable/unwilling. Also, if you’ve given them all the tools–you have to wonder…not everyone has “consistency” in their personality. Its a MUST while training a pup! And this may be the issue. Its always good for us to assess our own blind spots. I know I have my own–so I’m just being transparent!! I spoil the dogs like a gramma nowadays–oh its horrible!
So—it may not be a good idea to call us if you have not done the correction consistently and correctly. If needed–we will have your dog evaluated by a dog behavioralist of our choice if we feel the need–or send someone locally to check up if we believe the dog is being kept confined in a crate because of non-addressed nuisance behavior (I’ve only had to do this twice in 40 years!) YOU’LL HAVE TO READ MY MEMOIR TO HEAR ‘THOSE” STORIES LOL) Yup, both times it was the owner–and it was a scam to get me to give them their money back and keep their–biting (???)/jumping (???) pup). LOL–oh my… the stories I could tell–oh–wait! I do!!! They are in my memoir –link above–I tell allllll the stories–good, bad, and heartwarming–and I make sure you are TRAINED!!! You’ll truly learn from every person’s mistakes–and mine 🙂 Oh my, and mine…
We will be asking detailed questions if you call with issues (so we can assess the issues) so please never be offended. So make us proud—just do it!! You’ll have a pleasant dog on your hands for you and everyone you live with and come in contact with—a ‘gift’ to the world!! –Donna, Breeder, Owner, Founder, Endless Mt. Labradors
Other Related Posts: https://emlabradors.com/2023/06/get-my-puppy-to-stop-play-biting/
